Graz, Austria: Beyond Vienna, Salzburg, and the Alps – The City

Austria is a country that attracts millions of tourists each year. For a country its size, it consistently attracts relatively high numbers of visitors who take in the Alps or make a city trip to the capital of Vienna or backdrop of the Sound of Music, Salzburg (Austrians have likely never seen this movie and are annoyed with its popularity). However, Austria has another hidden gem of a city outside the Alps and Vienna, nestled into the rolling green hills of Styria, Austria’s southwestern province. In 2018 I studied German in Graz, Austria’s second-largest city and capital of Styria. During this time, I traveled to 21 countries throughout Europe, but my heart remained in Graz. I’ll tell you what’s so special and enthralling about this Austrian city obscured by the large shadows of Vienna to the north and the Alps in the west. Starting with the charm and history of it’s one-of-a-kind Altstadt.

The Altstadt of Graz, or the Old Town, is one of the largest, oldest, and most well-preserved medieval areas in the world. The Old Town and its colorful, Baroque-style buildings and facades bask in the glory of Schlossberg, and 11th century military fortress built on the top of a hill in the middle of a city covered by grass, trees and shrubbery. When visiting Graz, walk up the stairs on the side of Schlossberg or take the elevator up to a view of the Old Town’s famous red roofs, which are a hallmark of the UNESCO World Heritage site.

When I studied in Graz, my friends and I would often trek up Schlossberg with a few Puntigamers, the most popular beer brewed in Graz, to watch the sun set over the city. Nothing beats the view of the river Mur winding through the middle of the city, seeming to separate old and new architecture. When you are done at Schlossberg, walk down Herrengasse, Graz’s main street, and take a glance at the colorful facades, some of which are adorned with murals dating back to the 15th century. Then, get lost in the many side alleys, rich with hidden bars, shops, and cafes. In February, this is where parties and parades for Fasching, or Karneval, take place. In the winter, the street is lined with Christmas markets, and in Spring and Summer it is hard to go a week without finding live music or a festival outdoors.

When I studied in Graz, my friends and I would often trek up Schlossberg with a few Puntigamers, the most popular beer brewed in Graz, to watch the sun set over the city. Nothing beats the view of the river Mur winding through the middle of the city, seeming to separate old and new architecture. When you are done at Schlossberg, walk down Herrengasse, Graz’s main street, and take a glance at the colorful facades, some of which are adorned with murals dating back to the 15th century. Then, get lost in the many side alleys, rich with hidden bars, shops, and cafes. In February, this is where parties and parades for Fasching, or Karneval, take place. In the winter, the street is lined with Christmas markets, and in Spring and Summer it is hard to go a week without finding live music or a festival outdoors.

Just west of Schlossberg and bordering the Old Town is Stadtpark. With its close proximity to the rest of the city and position between the city center and the university campuses, it is one of the most lively parks I have ever visited. If the weather is nice, take some dinner and perhaps a bottle of Austrian white wine to the Volksgarten portion of the park, where students sit in circles under trees and next to a lovely little pond, playing music, singing songs, and enjoying life. If the weather gets bad, there are two wonderfully ambient bars situated on either side of the park, and much more of the city is close by.

Graz, home to more than 70,000 students, owes much of its vibrance to its youth population. Included in the 70,000 are thousands of international students as well, a group that I was a part of. The presence of its many students gives Graz an unmistakable glow. Further west of Stadtpark lies the campus of the University of Graz. Walk 5-10 minutes from Stadtpark down Zinzendorfgasse on a weekday and you will run into a plethora of university students heading to class. On Zinzendorfgasse there are several unique coffeehouses, such as my personal favorite, Café Fotter. You can also wander around used bookstores frequented by students, eat anything from high-quality sushi to a four euro lunch at a kebab stand or my favorite deli and butcher, Fleischerei Mosshammer.

After exploring the university campus, walk further west down Schubertstrasse. This is the most green, wealthy, and elegant area of Graz. The street is lined with a botanical garden, parks, and towering mansions of every color.

Without stopping, you can walk 20 minutes from the city center through Stadtpark and into the university campus. It is even easier to get around on bike, rented cheaply from one of the many bike rentals in the city. The best way to explore the many hidden treasures of Graz is to let yourself wander through the lively streets.

If you are visiting Austria or just traveling through Europe and looking for a central location to spend a night or two before heading to Italy or Germany, Graz is a wonderful city to discover. From its historical city center, to its abundance of outdoor activities, to its vibrant parks, cuisine, and nightlife, Graz is a truly cosmopolitan city. As a student there for eight months, I went from knowing almost nothing about it to loving it so much that I would recommend it as a travel destination over almost any city in Europe that I visited.

Be sure to check in next Friday, May 24th for Part 2 of Graz, Austria: Beyond Vienna, Salzburg, and the Alps – The Nature.